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Drawer slides 

Every craft application brings its own requirements, challenges and difficulties. Drawer runners are no exception. Only when you know exactly where to install a drawer and for what purpose can you determine and buy the right drawer runner. Drawer runners can be classified according to various criteria:

  • By their construction
  • According to their function
  • According to the type of mounting

The following is an overview of the whole world of drawer runners.

...according to construction

Mostly the type of use, but also the space requirement and the desired payload of a drawer determine the construction method of the drawer runner:

  • Telescopic runners: These drawer runners can be telescoped from a closed position to an extended, open position. The inner part is attached to the actual drawer, while the surrounding guide box of the rail is attached to the carcase. Telescopic runners are widely used and have proven their worth.
  • Underfloor runners: The particular advantage of an underfloor runner is that it requires little space. The drawer runner is located underneath the drawer and thus little space is needed on either side. This can be very advantageous depending on the application. Click here for the underfloor runners.
  • Roller guides: Probably the most common type of drawer guide, as it is very safe, robust and practical, is the roller guide. Several rollers run in a guide rail and hold the drawer in position. It is particularly practical that you can simply remove the drawer completely, e.g. to clean or repair it. But it also makes installation easier. Go to category
  • Ball-bearing drawer runners: These are telescopic runners in which the internal (extendable) profile is mounted on steel or plastic balls and thus has better and smoother running properties. View products

...by function

They are the invisible helpers that enable us to open and close drawers every day: drawer runners. Depending on the application, there are systems with different functions or a combination thereof:

  • Drawer runners with self-closing mechanism: These ensure the automatic retraction of the drawer over the last few centimetres.
  • Full-extension drawers with push-to-open function: Fronts without handles are becoming increasingly popular throughout the living area. Here, drawer runners are used that can be opened by pushing.
  • Soft-close damping: In kitchens, drawer runners with damping have become popular in recent years. This function prevents the drawer from slamming shut if it is ever closed too hastily.

More on this: drawer runners: Full-extension, partial-extension or another system?

The different drawer runners are suitable for different purposes. Depending on the function they are to fulfil, different systems can be selected. In addition, factors such as load capacity, dividing systems, cutlery inserts, etc. play a decisive role in the selection. To help you decide here, we have written a blog post on the topic of drawer runners and their uses.

 

...by mounting type

Hereby, drawer runners can be mounted in different ways:

  • Side-mounted: Drawers with side-mounted runners are particularly common. The advantages lie in the general reliability, simple assembly and, above all, the low space requirement in height.
  • Underfloor assembly: However, if the lateral space requirement is limited or you want to get the maximum out of the drawer width, you can resort to Underfloor assembly. In this case, you install the rails underneath the drawer, but at the expense of the usable height.
  • In the groove: You can also install the rail attached to the drawer in a groove. This reduces the space required at the side. The model Accuride 2642, for example, is suitable both for mounting in the groove and for surface-mounted lateral mounting.
  • Overlaying assembly: In contrast to this, the drawer runners are attached directly to the carcase and the side panel of the drawer in a surface-mounted assembly. A lateral, surface-mounted assembly therefore requires the most space and is at the expense of the usable drawer size.

 

Frequently asked: How long should a drawer runner be?

The simple answer: as long as possible. So either as long as the drawer, if it already exists, or as long as the depth of the carcase in which you want to fit homemade drawers, for example.

Quite simple.

Normally it is not quite that simple, however, as there are a few points to consider: Is a partial pull-out enough for you, or do you want a full pull-out? With a full-extension runner, you can pull out the drawer completely (100%, with a partial-extension runner 75%) and thus have unhindered access to the rear area. Full-extension runners usually have an additional intermediate element. This makes them a little wider. Make sure that you have enough space at the side of the drawer for such pull-outs. Another point to consider is the type of stop on the front. There are two types:

  • The inside drawer and
  • The front drawer

In the case of the internal drawer, the front of the drawer sits flush with the carcase side, or in other words: the drawer does not protrude from the carcase. The entire front of the piece of furniture thus forms a flush surface. Alternatively, the front of the internal drawer can even be recessed, i.e. it can be lower than the carcase. For recessed drawers in particular, you should choose a drawer runner with full extension or perhaps even over-extension so that you have easy access to the rear part of the drawer. In the case of a front drawer, the front of the drawer hits the carcase side, or in other words, it protrudes from the carcase. Depending on whether the drawer including the front is pushed into the carcase (inside drawer) or the front hits the carcase, i.e. remains on the outside (front drawer), less or more length is available.

  • So for internal drawers, the formula for calculating the length of the drawer runners is: cabinet depth - front thickness - 3mm tolerance. It can also be shorter.
  • For front drawers, more length is available. The formula for how long the drawer runner should be is: cabinet depth - 3mm tolerance, or shorter.